Full Circle

Once upon a time, there was a married couple called “The Williams” who lived in a southern African country while serving together as Peace Corps volunteers. Then 30 years later, it would happen again. Being a married volunteer is pretty unique as only about 10% of people serve with their spouse. Even more unique is when you’re the second generation of married volunteers and serving in the same region. So of course it was a no-brainer for Chris’ parents, Steve and Karen, to come and check out our lives in Mozambique after going through the PC experience themselves in the neighboring country of Malawi. Here’s a rundown of the original Williams visiting the Williams 2.0.

They arrived tired after a 36 hour-long journey, but not lacking enthusiasm. “Oh my god, we’re in Africa!”, Karen exclaimed on the car ride from the airport to our house. Although she’d been on this continent a few times before, its distinctive authenticity still had a way to astound her. Steve would also later say that coming here reminds him of why he’s so drawn to Africa. We eagerly gave a synopsis of our surroundings, the passing landscape helping to spur on the conversation.  Steve began to recount his days in Malawi, managing a district hospital and speaking the local language, Chichewa. They lived only a couple of miles away from the boarder of Mozambique yet were unable to cross it because of civil war. These stories, along with his longing to find a Chichewa-speaking Mozambican, would continue to pop up throughout their two-week visit as countless connections were made between our experiences.  They may have driven a car, had two children in tow and a much busier work schedule during their Peace Corps service, yet many similarities still exist. Once we arrived to our house in Mapinhane, we took the first evening to relax and catch up while they gained their bearings. Time in the village was spent exploring (and sometimes getting lost in) dirt paths that led us to local houses and local people. We took walks to the market to discover the day’s fresh fruits & veggies, dictating our dinner plans. In our home, they saw how we adapted to a life with no electricity or running water. I demonstrated how to use local cooking utensils and got to show-off my dutch –ovening skills. Time was also spent getting to know our colleagues and students.  They both visited our classrooms to watch us teach (and even taught a little too!), and came to participate in my English club. During their first visit to the club, a few of my students gave Karen a capulana, traditional fabric, to welcome her to the community. It was an incredibly kind and unexpected gesture, yet not surprising coming from these students who I’ve grown to adore. To thank them for the welcome gift, the following week Karen brought a treat of crackers and PB&J. Between teaching the new American guests how to properly wear a capulana and devouring goodies, the students enjoyed the opportunity for a cultural exchange and a chance to practice their English with native speakers. Another highlight of our time in Mapinhane was a goat roast. It’s customary in Mozambican culture to throw a party for visiting guests as a way to welcome them to the community, and introduce them to friends and neighbors. While I was not too excited about the hassle of getting things organized, Chris really wanted his parents to experience an authentic Mozambican social gathering. So he took charge, and authentic it was: Cooking started hours later than expected. Neighborhood women stopped by to help prepare.  Enormous heaps of goat and rice sat on the table as we awkwardly stared at each other, waiting for things to officially begin. In the end, it was a huge success, awkwardness and all since that’s a part of the cross-cultural experience. About 30 people from our school community came to greet the parents and enjoy our epregada’s boiled goat recipe. There was even time for a few speeches. Steve thanked everyone for being our family away from home, and the teachers thanked us for the formal introduction. And with that, Chris’ Mozambican street cred continues to skyrocket. :) But village life wasn’t all we showed them. We wanted to take advantage of our close proximity to beautiful beaches, so Vilankulo and Tofo were also on our itinerary.  The first day in Vil, we showed them around our local beach town and stayed at a popular beachfront backpackers, enjoying the sound of the ocean from our cottages. The following day, we were scheduled for a boat trip to the Bazaruto Archipelago, a group of islands just off the coast of Vil. Unfortunately, the windy weather wouldn’t allow us to go, but it did give us the opportunity to take a boat to our next location rather than driving. We stayed at an awesome place called Marimba Secret Gardens, about 15k away from the town’s center. It’s called “secret gardens” for a reason; The only way to get to this place is a car ride through the bush, or a boat. Although it was too rough to venture to the islands, we were able to sail the choppy coast to reach our destination. We made it to Marimba at low tide, which meant a 30 minute walk in the sand to finally reach the entrance, but it was totally worth it for photo ops of starfish. When we finally reached Marimba, we were “ooh-ing and ahh-ing” at the place. Almost everything was made of local materials yet was done very artistically and in a modern way. We explored the secluded surroundings, ate great meals and spent time around the communal fire pit.  The second day, the wind subsided and the sun was shining so we took our dhow trip to the islands. It was a lovely day to snorkel, lay in the warm sand and eat lunch on the beach. Our other beach location, Tofo, offered more opportunities to brag about this country. We bought fresh lobster for lunch and had it prepared by locals in the market, then browsed the huge selection of crafts before relaxing on the beach. After an evening out with Italian food, we stayed at yet another cute guesthouse. The final day was spent walking around the historical city of Inhambane before saying goodbye and sending them off in a tuk-tuk to the airport. To have visitors, no matter who they are, is a treat because they help you to see your life with fresh eye. I found it even better to have visitors who have a connection and a love for Africa. So many things have faded into the background for me, but now I’m remembering that they are distinctive and special, and that this way of life will always stay with us. As I told Karen and Steve, “I get it now”. Their welcoming way with strangers, using sarongs (or what we would call capulanas) for anything and everything, and their willingness for adventure, travel and otherwise.  It all comes with the Peace Corps territory, a territory both of “The Williams” couples are now familiar with.

A day after their visit, we headed down to Maputo for our COS (Close Of Service) conference, the final conference of our service. It was the last time our entire training group, Moz 17, was brought together to reflect on the past two years and prepare for the administrative and medical tasks that are required during our actual week of departure.  A lot of the sessions focused on life after PC, where we talked about prepping our resumes and career options, and tales of readjustment back into America-land.  There was time to share stories and laugh at the memories we’ve made together as a group. Chris and I were asked to compile a slideshow of pictures as a surprise to open up the conference. We scoured hundreds of pics I’d taken since the group first met in orientation and stalked our fellow Moz 17er’s Facebook pages to find what we needed. A little dramatic music and a few “you know you’re a Moz 17 PCV” anecdotes later, and it was completed. I saw lots of smiles and laughter when the video was shown, so it seemed to be well received.  Another dedication to our group was presented in rap form by 3 of our creative members. Hilarious for us, a little confusing for our Country Director who was in attendance but appreciated it nonetheless. We reminisced and enjoyed each other’s company during our free time as well with dinners out and walks in a city we all now appreciate, yet was so terrifying when we arrived 2 years ago. Two members of the PC staff were generous enough to host all 38 of us at their homes for dinner. One party was traditional American while the other was traditional Mozambican, fitting for a group who has learned to weave together these two cultures. Yet after all the social gatherings and time spent together, I did not feel the sense of closure I thought would come from this conference. Perhaps it’s because we still have a couple of months left before we actually finish our service, when we will leave in staggered groups of 10 instead of all together.  Or maybe because I am confident that some of the friendships I’ve made will continue for years to come. Not to mention that seeing friends across the country in the US seems so easy now compared to bumpy bus rides with chickens. Consistent internet access and cell phone coverage help too. But I think Chris’ explanation says it best: There is no closure because there never will be. This experience has forever changed us and will shape the rest of our lives in some way. So instead of figuring out how to wrap things up in a neat little package, I’m hoping to take in these final months with a renewed appreciation of my surroundings.  I’m hoping to come full circle. It started with Steve and Karen as parent visited child in a place they had been 30 years ago. It continues now as I remember what was so amazing when I first arrived here, and remembering to appreciate it as I leave. After the COS conference, I got off the plane and hitched a ride in the back of a truck without a second thought. As we drove through the local village into town with the wind blowing through my hair, I realized this is one of those moments to savor. It’s a time to mentally record the vignettes of life in rural Africa, like children playing in the dirt and women carrying barrels of water on their heads. Even now, I am writing this blog with the sunrise lit Indian Ocean and tall palm trees as my scenery. Lake Erie just can’t do it justice. And so the end-of-service reflection begins, as I try to remember who I was when I entered this country and who I am now. I’ll be getting a very clear picture of that in a couple of weeks when the new group of trainees and our replacements, Moz 21, arrives in country.  I was asked by PC staff to meet them at the airport upon their landing in Maputo, and guide them through their first week at homestay in Naamaacha. I’m guessing there’s nothing quite like explaining how to take a bucket bath to really know that you’ve come full circle.